how to repair a fisher paykel washing machine
Should I buy a new one?
Or should I try to fix it and save more plastic, lead environment in the process, who knows what else?
I think I should at least fix it.
But I don\'t have much time and I\'m under pressure from \"management\" to ask me to do or buy a new . . . . . . But soon!
So I started searching online for schematic, technical information and anything useful I could find.
But there is little to come.
There are only a few posts here and there, but nothing substantial, and the general consensus is that most failures are related to the control module.
The most useful information found is a copy of the Service Manual (attached)
The fault code is listed but there is no reference to the control module or its schematic diagram.
No one seems to be able to fix the module, when the part fails it is considered a one-off by the manufacturer and when it fails it is replaced with a new part.
It seems like a waste of natural resources and money, so I decided to take a good look at it and check to see if it really has a problem and can be fixed if there is a problem.
Unplug the machine before opening the control panel!
During the repair process, always check carefully and look at that plug before doing anything inside the machine to make sure it has come off.
Yes, we will deal with possible electric shocks here if you are not careful, as both the control board and the peripherals are connected to the power supply.
So, remove the plug before touching anything . . . . . . Don\'t forget to have water everywhere!
Make sure the plug falls off the wall.
This is convenient if the washing machine does not have water and washing machine, as the water level sensor is not affected when disconnected and the latter is turned back on
Attached during repair.
Remove 2 screws on the back of the control panel (see pic)
And rotate the panel from back to front (see pic).
You will see the control module (
Long blue plastic box with many cables and plugs)
Still connected to the machine.
The control panel is connected to the control module via a cable with a plug.
Disconnect this plug from the module and place the control panel in a safe place.
Note: All sockets in the control module have small plastic latches that can hold the plug on the socket;
You must turn on the plug carefully and unplug it (see pic).
At this point, if you have a digital camera on hand, take a picture or two of the whole thing and keep it for reference when you re-shoot it later
Put everything back.
First, remove the pressure sensor hose very carefully from the pressure sensor by first turning the spring clamp towards the hose and pushing the edge of the hose away from the sensor (see pic).
Don\'t pull out of the hose as this will grab the plastic pipe of the sensor and possibly break it!
Be careful, because the hose is likely to be stuck on the sensor in years of close contact.
Next, unplug the spade connector at the top
Pay attention to their location.
This is very important because they are mains and ground connections and have to go back to exactly the same location.
Now remove all the plugs from the module (
They are all in different sizes, so there is no need to tag them when reassembling).
After removing all the plugs from the control module, there are still two cables leading to the hot water and cold water valve, and both have connectors pointing down (see pic).
Be careful to disconnect the two connectors but tag them (
Like red and blue)to re-
Please connect correctly because these two sizes are similar.
When everything is disconnected from the module, remove the screws that hold the module on the machine and lift it from the machine.
The control module consists of a long pc board packaged in a 2-
Some plastic boxes.
The UN can easily pry open the box.
Cut 3 plastic labels along one side of the box.
Once the box is opened, the control board can be used out of the box.
Plastic label that will be fixed (see pics).
For this step, we need a digital multimeter (DMM).
There are 2 fuses on the board (see pic), one of 1.
Another of 6A and 4A, both of which are of type \"t \"(slow-blow).
Set DMM to Diode-
Check the range and test the continuity of the fuse.
Replace the faulty one.
I had to repair my motherboard 4 times in a year, mainly because initially I couldn\'t find the original transistor or their exact equivalent, and the replacement I installed was not very suitable.
1 in all cases.
The 6A fuse has been blown and the 4A fuse has been blown only in the last repair.
I replaced the original fuse with the more common Type 20mm fuse by welding the lead and placing it near the original position (see pic).
During the last repair, I decided to install only the fuse holder for 1.
6A fuse because there is not enough space in the box to hold another fuse.
DMM is still set to Diode-
Check the range, check each power mosfet (
The following way: connect the probe to two small external pins (
A label attached to the center that is welded to the circuit board)
And find short circuit instructions (see pic).
Remove and replace the short circuit carefully (faulty)mosfets.
During my first repair, I replaced four power MOSFETs, then two at 2nd, then the other two at 3rd, and then the other two at 4.
Only two transistors are the same.
Whenever a power mosfet explodes, it is also a medium-power mosfet (the driver)
Blow, need to change (see pic).
But, before re-placing it, once the double check is removed with DMM, it will be short-circuited in case the short-circuited appears in the diode or somewhere else.
When stripping the mosfet, heat the tab first, then the pin, while carefully pulling with a long nose clamp until it is released from the board.
This operation is difficult because the Mosfet sticks to the board during manufacturing and you have to crack the tiny keys before the Mosfet is removed.
Very gentle, do not damage the board as it is easily damaged.
Some power MOSFETs have 100-
Ohm resistance to the face.
These resistors sometimes explode with mosfet and open circuit.
They are close to the mosfet and are usually in front.
Check all these 100-ohm resistors (marked ‘101’)
The following way: after replacing the fuse mosfet, connect the DMM probe at both ends of the resistor and look for a reading of about 0. 100 or near.
If there is no reading, the resistance is open and must be replaced.
Take a moment, because if you miss a faulty one, the mosfet will explode again immediately when powering the board.
DMM is still set to Diode-
Check the range, check each high power diode on the other side of the board (see pic)
The following way: connect the DMM probe to each end of the diode and look for open indication (no indication)
Or diode indication (
Indication between 0. 4 and 0. 6).
Then reverse the probe and check the indication opposite to the previous probe.
If any DMM reading indicates a short or open circuit in both directions, the diode is faulty;
Must be replaced.
Check all power diodes.
I \'ve never found any of the smaller diodes to be faulty, but you\'ll also need to check these if all the other diodes can\'t fix the motherboard.
In the last repair, all four diodes in the bridge configuration that powered the cap were blown and all cracked and part of the PCB track evaporated. Re-
Assemble the control module and put it back in place with the fixing screw. Re-
Connect all wires with special attention to 2 ground shovel connectors and power connectors. Do not re-
Connect the pressure sensor hose at this stage.
Turn the control panel so that it faces in the right direction and place it in the position at the top of the control box.
Now step back and plug in.
If all goes well, the control panel should light up the \"signal\" and stabilize in the last known washing cycle. Success! ! !
If it fails again, you will hear a faint \"plop\" sound because you have missed one or more failed components and you have to start over.
To be thorough this time (
This is the first time I have encountered this situation because I missed a 100 open circuit-ohm resistor).
Unplug the power cord when everything goes well, if there is no water in the machine, re-
Connect the pressure sensor hose and clip.
If there is water in the machine, you need to remove it from the machine before reinstalling it
Connecting the pressure sensor hose or the machine will think it is empty, and in fact it is not empty and will be filled with more water, causing confusion.
When you look at the blackboard for the first time, you think. . .
What\'s the problem here? ? ? . . .
But so far I\'m lucky that all I need to do is replace the fuse, mosfet and diode to get it to run again with one exception: the time it stops running because it\'s off
Micro-switch balance (
Installed under the power module, see figure)
Broken, had to replace.
I found this fault as instructed by the fault code given in the manual.
I bet most of the faults are caused by these parts.
If the module does not work for the first time, please check again.
If all of these power MOSFETs, diodes, resistors, and fuses are working properly, the module should work as any other component on the board rarely fails.
The pump is starting to make some bearing noise now, but my Fisher and Paykel are still strong today.
For this repair you need: Tool Philips screwdriver, long nose clamp, digital multi meter, small soldering ironA suckerparts10x1.
6A/250 V/T/20mm fuse (slow-blow fuses)(Farnell p/n 112-3127 )(about $10)
10 X4A/250 V/T/20mm fuse (slow-blow fuses)(
Page 1123135 Farnell)(about $10)10 x 100-
Ohm SMD resistance (Farnell p/n 933-5749 )(about $5)
10 x FCD4N60 power mosfet (Farnell p/n 132-4776 )(about $10)
10 x buk98 180 medium power mosfet (Farnell p/n 176-9680 )(about $10)
20 x avalanche soft recovery power diode (Farnell p/n 165-1070 )(about $10)
These quantities ensure that you have enough time for more than one repair and also save time (
In my case it was four and I made the last one in less than an hour).
The problem still exists . . . . . . Why does the power mosfet explode? (
Other components will only explode because of this).
It seems to me that the first event that happened put pressure on some of the other MOSFETs that sometimes fail.
But why did they fail in the first place?
I\'m looking into this now.
The best explanation I can find is that in some cases, when the machine is stopped halfway through the program of the micro controller (
For example, when the machine stops with a power button instead of using a pause button)
, Some mosfet is activated out of sync and blown up.
To control this, I have now instructed \"manage\" to stop or change the program using the pause button only.
This has worked well so far.