gatling rubber band machine gun - easy weekend project
There is a simpler way to make these parts using expensive dedicated tools, but we are trying to make the whole guide easier to understand by using the basic available tools that anyone can use.
These plans and templates can be downloaded free of charge on this site, and the methods shown in the video and described in this manual will make it easy (
Even a novice Carpenter)
Finish this project and start throwing rubber right away!
The gun can shoot a lot of rubber bands, and the only limiting factor in the number of rubber bands it can hold is how many rubber bands can hold on each barrel without slipping.
However, the limit is very high and there should be enough ammunition to dominate any rubber band gunfight!
There is a process for loading rubber bands, a bit tricky at first, but by watching videos of how to load rubber band guns and practicing, you should be able to master the process at any time!
I like to do projects like this and use CNC machines and laser cutting machines in similar projects, but accessing these machines can be a problem (
I can only use laser machines in school term).
I will participate in the competition VI of The EPILOG challenge (among others)
And hope to win a personal laser machine and produce more interesting projects like this.
Please vote for me if you like this project!
You need the following tools to make this rubber band Gatlin gun: the material needed to build this Gatlin gun is: Note: When buying such wood, it will be listed as 1 \"thick\" in the hardware store \", but it\'s actually 3/4 \"thick \".
As far as I know, this is because the board starts with 1 \"thick\" and then plans 1/8 on each side to get ready for retail, though, I may be wrong, the moral of the story is to look for something marked \"thick\", but, if you are worried that the tape measure is not the 3/4 thick you really need, take the tape measure.
Note 2: when looking at the size, just realize that all the templates need to be sized large enough.
It may be wise to print the template and carry it with you.
The biggest piece you need is the butt, as you can see in the video, I have to put the template on the diagonal to fit my piece of pine.
The size of each hardware store may be slightly different, so it is difficult to give an exact size, but by carrying the printed template with you, you should be able to find a suitable dress.
Also, make sure you don\'t have too many knots or chisels in your work.
Knots can be difficult to cut/drill, and they can also break to make the parts unusable.
The template file is in PDF format, so you may need to get adobe reader (to view them.
Download them from this site and then make sure that when printing them, click the actual size option under page size and processing.
This ensures that the document is printed at 100%, otherwise the template will not work.
A ruler is printed at the bottom of each template page so you can use the tape measure or ruler you already have to verify that the template is printed at 100%.
Before you stick them to the wood and cut them off, it\'s worth checking them carefully.
Once you have printed all the templates and verified their dimensions with a ruler, you can cut them off and stick them to your pine board.
Don\'t trim them too close to the edge, leave enough paper to glue, so that it can be firmly fixed in place when drilling and cutting.
In fact, I printed two sets of templates in case anything happens when cutting wood, and I will prepare another set of templates to trim and glue.
After printing out all the templates and verifying the print size using a ruler or tape measure, you can glue the template to the wood.
Take out each template sheet and cut out the gun part (
Leave an inch or 2 space on the edge).
Take out each cut out template and cover the back of each template with your glue stick.
Try to cover as much paper as possible until the edge of the paper.
If your template is firmly attached to the wood, it will be much easier to cut the wood.
Now press each template on the wood and smooth on one side.
After sticking each one to the appropriate position, let it be fixed for a few minutes to ensure proper adhesion to the surface of the wood.
It doesn\'t take a long time for the glue to stick dry, so a few minutes is enough.
You\'re ready to start drilling now.
It\'s best to do all the drilling first.
Each hole in the template is marked with the drill bit size you need to use.
We use shovels because they are cheap and extensive and do a good job.
The more expensive spiral bit may cut cleaner, but more expensive (
Especially for the larger 5/8 \"and 3/4).
Each hole on the template marked as a drill will also mark a central point to help you know where to start the drill.
Just put the tip of the drill bit in the center marked hole and make sure the drill bit is straight up and down as much as possible.
This will be much easier if you can use a drill, but not required.
As long as you are careful, you can get a clean cut that is evenly distributed.
In most cases, it doesn\'t matter what bit you start.
The only real exception is the rear barrel rotor.
It is easier to drill 1/4 \"holes first and then 5/8 (
If you do it in turn, the smaller bit will want to slide into the larger hole when cutting).
When drilling, it is also helpful to have a \"sacrifice\" board under the pine board.
You can drill straight through the pine tree into the bottom plate, which will help with a cleaner cut (
Otherwise, when the drill bit breaks through the bottom while drilling, the pine tree will have uneven outlet holes).
Once you drill all the holes out, you can start cutting.
This is probably the trickiest part of the project.
We used a fixture saw in the video, but it could be much easier if you could use a rolling saw, but as you can see from the video, it is very feasible to use the clamp saw. Gun Stock -
To do this, you have to cut it from many different angles, remove the pieces, and chew off the tight corner blocks until you can install the blade for straight cutting.
I didn\'t bother to worry about the rounded corners on the back of my ass either, and when I finished all of them, they were easy to do with a piece of sandpaper.
If you are having trouble in any area, just make sure and try to cut off the \"pride\" of this line \"(i. e.
Error on one side of too much material, not cut into lines).
Sand and cutting materials are always possible and it\'s hard to re-add. Rotor Barrels -
These just need to be cut from drilling to drilling.
Do your best to walk along the arch with a saw blade, but you can polish it smooth all the time after that. String Guides -
I started with an internal cut (
The position where the guide will be attached to the Butt).
You should have drilled a 3/4 hole here so that it is easier to put the blade into these tight corners.
Then wire-cut along the outside until the part is cut out.
Note: my guide for cutting in the video ends up being harder to cut than I thought (
Closer rounded corners in shape).
I updated the template file to make these sections easier to crop since cropping is so troublesome (
They will work in exactly the same way). Hand Crank -
Just use the saw blade to cut this piece along the curve as much as possible.
I just try to stay outside the line and polish it to the final shape.
Barrel and hand-held spacer-
All shims are the same size, so these can be done at the same time if you need them.
It\'s a bit difficult to cut out these, but it\'s not impossible.
Again, I just walked along the line and made sure to stay outside of it so I could finish it with sandpaper.
Note: All gaskets are round in 2 \"diameter.
If you can use a 2 \"hole saw, this will make it easier to cut these holes.
This is not required, though, and will only be recommended if you already have access to the hole saw of the drill bit.
The gun is designed with 10 pins with a diameter of 5/8.
We bought a pin with a length of 48 \"from the hardware store, and we used 3 rods (
I \'ve also seen 36-inch pins, so make sure you have enough to buy them.
Each barrel has a curved edge and a flat edge.
The curved edge will point forward on the gun, and the gap is to fix the rubber band in the appropriate position.
The flat edges will sit behind the gun and need to be flat so that the rubber band can pull up and launch on the back of the barrel while spinning the hand.
1/4 \"the pin piece will lean against the back flat barrel to ensure that the rubber band does not slide to the back of the barrel (
This will again limit the rubber band to launch from the barrel when the hand cranks rotate).
In order to make the front gap in the bucket, we used a shovel bit of 1/2 (
Again, it will work if you have a spiral bit).
We drilled 1/2 holes in the pin to try to make sure we were as close to the center of the pin as possible.
Once the hole is drilled, we cut the pin at the center of the hole (
So you end up with 2 pins that cut out half a circle from one end).
We chose 12 \"is the length of our barrel.
We felt it was a good length with a lot of rubber bands in this size range.
If you want a barrel longer or shorter, it\'s time to decide.
We start the measurement from the half-circle end and mark it as 12 \"on each pin \".
We then cut them into length with a clamp saw.
We repeated these steps until we had 10 sep barrels.
When we cut the barrel, we also cut the 1/4 pin as the plug of the rubber band of the back barrel.
The length of these guns depends on how you assemble them, but we chose 1. 5\".
Make sure and cut out 10 of them (
One per barrel).
In addition, pay attention to the direction of the barrel in the picture of the assembled barrel rotor assembly.
When you glue components together, you need to make sure you twist them to the right angle.
The rotor Axel is the part that is connected to the butt and allows the barrel rotor to rotate.
We used the same 5/8 \"pin material, but we just cut it into about 15 \"-16\".
You want a little more than you actually use, and then trim the rest during assembly.
Measure and mark the pin and cut at the mark.
You also have to drill holes in the butt of the gun that the rotor Axel will stick.
This is probably the trickiest drilling you have to do.
It is important to figure this out as much as possible, and try not to let the drill blow out of the side of the stock.
Basically, just put the eyeball ball in the center of the butt and drill about 1/2 to the butt with a 5/8 shovel bit.
There are two pins for the manual crank.
Will work as an ACK that rotates in the butt of a gun
We cut the Axel part for about 6 \"(not less)
We know that it must be cut down during assembly.
As for the hand shake, I just hold the pin in my hand and mark the size based on how wide my hand is.
If they are too long, both can be trimmed later.
Since this is something that is very standard, I didn\'t bother to capture any sanding on the video.
I started by polishing all the template paper and glue.
It didn\'t take too long because it was just a glue.
After I cleaned it up, I just polished any parts that needed it.
I am looking for any rough patches, areas that are not cut with a fixture saw, or any corner that I decide is easier to Polish.
It\'s a bit time consuming, but not terrible.
The pine trees are very soft, so they are polished very quickly.
If you have a semi-circular metal file, it is also helpful in some places now, but this is not required.
It also took me a little time to get around some edges (
Especially around the handle).
I just want it to stay a little better and I think it looks better as well.
I just rubbed some sandpaper on the sharp edge until it was rounded by what I liked.
Use all your sanding, start with a lower amount of sand like 100, and then use your way to reach a finer sand like 280.
You might go crazy and get high sandpaper, but I don\'t think it\'s needed for this type of project.
Really, it\'s better to watch the video for this.
I\'ll try to explain some tricky parts, but it\'s very direct if you watch the video.
I used a good quality wood glue and I just sprayed some on a piece of paper.
Then I picked up a toothpick and scooped a little glue and applied it to the pieces I wanted to stick together.
Then I stick them together.
I don\'t use any fancy clips (
But if you have, you can)
The most novel thing I get is some rubber bands that hold the buckets in place when they are dry, and the rest is just gravity.
Vertical string guide-
I started with the butt and rope guide.
The vertical string guide rail is exactly opposite to the front of the stock.
This also helps to strengthen the area as you have to drill out the holes in the material for the rotor shaft.
Once the glue is in place, it should bring a lot of power to that area.
Horizontal string guide-
In the video, I attached the horizontal string guide to the vertical string guide.
I hope, though, that I set aside some space between the two parts.
It still works on me, but I can see that it works better if the horizontal rail is placed further away from the stock angle.
Note: This is also the place where you can make it with a right hand or left hand rubber band gun.
However, choosing which side the horizontal string guide will send the string to will determine whether you turn the crank with your right or left hand.
I am right handed, so I put the horizontal string guide hole on the right side of the butt. Barrel Axel -
Next, I took the barrel of Axel, rolled the end with a little glue, and put it in the hole of the butt.
Before I found a place where I could place it, I tried to make sure that it sat as straight as possible and was not disturbed by the drying of the glue. Hand Crank -
Next, I stick the two pins to the handle of the hand.
I need to dry the component before I stick it on the butt.
Just use the eyeballs to get them as close to the straight line as possible.
Make sure to place Axel in the larger end hole and hand in the smaller end hole.
I marked my pins with a pencil, after I cut them so that they can be more easily identified later.
Barrel rotor assembly-
I stick it together with a rubber band, and then I put the glue on the front end and let it dry.
It\'s easier to see how to do this in the video and it\'s harder to explain.
The rear rotor does not glue (
The one with 1/4 holes)
Because once the gun is assembled, you need to place it and glue it.
Again, this is shown more clearly in the video.
Let all these parts dry, place for an hour or two
For this part, I put the barrel Axel gasket on Axel, then I put the semi-stick barrel rotor assembly on it, I just use the business card between the gasket and the butt, until I can safely rotate the barrel rotor assembly without the need for a 1/4 pin impact string guide (
I haven\'t glued the 1/4 pin in place yet, I just put a few in it to adjust the size).
The magic number for me is 8 business cards, but this may change depending on the way you assemble the first part of the gun.
Again, if you watch the video, you\'ll see how I do this with a business card.
Once I figured out the space, I put a little glue on the gasket and put it aside to dry.
Rear barrel rotor-
Now that I have determined the spacing for the barrel rotor and gasket, I can glue the rear rotor in place.
Like the front rotor, I left the rubber bands on top and separated the barrel from the rotor enough to slide a little glue between them. 1/4\" Dowels -
I just used glue to roll up the ends of the 1/4 pins and stick them in each hole.
These need to be flat on the bucket (
Any space between these will allow the rubber bands to slide under and behind the barrel and cause mis fires).
If the pin fits right on the barrel, I just use a rubber band around the 1/4 pin and barrel to make sure the contact is dry. Hand Crank -
Next, I finished my hand shake.
I put a gasket on Axel and then went through the butt and put another one on the other side.
I moved Axel back and forth until I found the right length where the hand shake does not touch the rope guide rail when winding.
Once I find that place, I mark it on Axel with a pen, and then I cut it where I mark it.
Then I took out the business card and put a few cards between the spacer and the butt on both sides.
Just need to have enough space so that the crank can be moved without being caught in the butt of the gun.
I have made 4 cards on each side, but this can be a bit more, 2 is enough, it will reduce the jitter, but 4 can still work.
Then I just put a little glue on the spacers to fix them and put it aside to dry.
Note: If you choose the left hand configuration, you need to make sure that the manual crank is placed on the same side as the string hole on the horizontal string guide.
End gasket of barrel rotor assembly-
Next, I separated the barrel rotor assemblies with business cards and then glued them in place, thus completing the barrel rotor assemblies.
I had to cut my business card in order to get used to the smaller ones.
Again, it only needs to have enough space between the rotor and the gasket so that the assembly can rotate freely.
I used 4 cards but 2 might be enough to not produce much jitter.
Once stuck in the back and front of the barrel, I stuck the end gasket in the proper position.
After that, let all your glue dry and you can add the rope. String -
Twist one end of your rope to the rear barrel rotor and tie a knot inside the barrel assembly so that the rope cannot pass through.
Then pass the rope through the vertical rope guide rail and the horizontal rope guide rail, and finally wrap it around the hand shake shaft and tie the knot on the shaft.
Apply a little tension on the rope, simply wrap the rope around with a hand shake until all the ropes are wrapped around Axel.
You\'re done, ready to load your gun and start shooting padner!
By watching the above video, it is easier to see how to load the gun.
The basic idea is that you put the rope on the bucket first and then stretch the rubber band on top of the rope.
Rotate the barrel over and repeat the whole process.
You continue to go around the barrel until there is no room on the bucket for more rubber bands.
As long as you place only one rubber band on each layer of rope, you can continue to walk around the barrel and load multiple rubber bands in the bucket.
When you wrap the rope back, they shoot one out of the barrel at a time.
I hope you enjoyed the project, it was great to make and very interesting to use!
Here are some pictures of the finished Gatlin rubber band gun.
Let me know if you want a better photo and I will update this section with a more detailed final gun photo.